Morphological Characteristics of the Wire Fox Terrier
Wire Fox Terrier (detailed introduction)
The ideal height of an adult Wire Fox Terrier should be 35-39 cm, weighing 6.5-8.5 kg, with males slightly larger than females. The body length should not exceed 39 cm, back length no more than 31 cm, and the ideal body ratio is height equal to length.
Morphological Characteristics
Eyes
Dark in color, relatively small, set deep without protruding, full of enthusiasm, liveliness, and intelligence. The shape is close to round and spaced not too far apart. Any eyes tending toward yellow are a fault.
Ears
V-shaped, very small, medium thickness, hanging forward on the side of the cheeks. The fold line of the ears is slightly above the top of the head, unlike the Foxhound's ears which hang on both sides of the head.
Disqualifications
Prick ears, tulip ears, or rose ears.
Skull
Flat, slightly slanted, width tapers towards the eyes. A well-developed adult dog’s widest part of the skull does not exceed 3.5 inches, smaller in bitches. If a normally developed adult’s skull width exceeds this, it is considered "coarse," while less than this is called a "bitch’s" head. Although the facial outline tapers gradually from eyes to muzzle and connects slightly slantingly to the forehead rather than having a "dish" face or a sudden drop in front of the eyes, it is fuller and straighter but not a finely chiseled "wedge."
Jaw
Well-developed bones, white and strong teeth, making the face appear solid and powerful, which is important. Excessive bone and muscle are redundant and unattractive. Overly full and rounded cheeks are called "thick-faced." The nose leather is black. Disqualification: nose leather is white, pink, spotted, or other colors.
Mandible
Solid and muscular, teeth scissor bite. Disqualification: overshot or undershot bite.
Neck, Backline, Body
The neck is neat and muscular, no throatiness, normal length, presenting a graceful line from the side. The back should be short, flat, solid, and not loose. The loin is very strong, muscular, with a very slight arch. The term "loose" refers to a slightly sagging back behind the shoulders and a long distance between the last rib and the hip. When the distance between the last rib and the hip is very short, it is called "tight coupling" or "tight connection." The Wire Fox Terrier’s back is very short, giving the neck sufficient length and very free movement. The female’s connection is correspondingly slightly longer. The chest is deep but not wide; too narrow or too wide chests are not acceptable. An overly deep chest affects mobility over different terrains. The lower half of the chest is deep. The front half of the ribs are moderately arched while the rear ribs expand well. The tail position is slightly high, held happily but cannot curl. The tail should be strong, docked at 3/4 of the total length; too short a tail is unsuitable for work or competition.
Forequarters
From the front view, the shoulders slope steeply downward, nicely inclined from the neck joint to the end. From the side, the shoulders are long, well connected to the back, slanting from the end toward the wither, always with a clear outline. The shoulder blades lie back flat, making the forequarters long enough combined with a short back, forming an ideal hunter. The elbows hang vertically close to the body and move freely. From any angle, the forelimbs should be straight with strong bones.
Paws are round, compact and not large; pads are hard and tough; toes have a moderate arch, neither turning inward nor outward. The correct shape of forelimbs and paws distributes body weight evenly on the toes and pads.
Hindquarters
Should be solid and muscular, lying down or crouching easily; thighs long and strong, stifle joint angle appropriate, neither inward nor outward turning; hocks form a proper angle with the thighs, very low, vertical, and parallel when viewed from behind. When the dog stands, the stifle joint bends like a Foxhound’s. The worst hindquarters are short second thigh sections with a straight stifle joint, making the hind legs decorative rather than a propulsion tool. From front or rear views, moving hind legs should remain straight, and stifle joints not turned outward.
Paws same as forequarters.
Coat
The best coat appears uneven, twisted, dense, and wiry. Hair growth is tight and coarse, so skin cannot be seen even when parted by hand. Underneath this wiry hair is a layer of short, fine, soft undercoat. The hair on the body sides is less hard than that on the back and legs. The hardest hairs are "curly" or slightly wavy, but curly coats are not welcome. Hair on the upper and lower jaws is loose and long, giving the face a solid look. The forelegs' coat is also dense and loose. Hair length on the shoulders and neck is 0.5~1 inch; on the withers, back, ribs, and limbs is 1~1.5 inches. Coat length varies with climate, season, and individual. Judges must decide what "coat volume" is appropriate under the conditions.
Color
White with markings; slate, red, or liver markings are not favored. This counts as a minor or no penalty.
Gait
Gait and stance are very important. When walking, the forelegs swing parallel on both sides, like a pendulum. Main driving force comes from the hind legs, which are visibly longer and muscular. From the front close-up, forelegs form a continuous straight line, "dish" shaped. Conversely, forelimb movement controlled by the shoulders, paws spaced wide apart, forms a paddling step. When the hocks turn inward, stifle joints and paws turn outward, forming cow-hocked hindquarters, seriously affecting propulsion power. When the hocks turn outward, causing paw crossing, it forms an awkward and ungraceful gait.